Óscar and Marta Peña farm eleven hectares on a ridge above Acevedo, and they have been growing Pink Bourbon there since well before anyone was paying a premium for it. They pick in three passes rather than stripping the branch, which costs them time and gets them a lot with almost no underripes in it.

The fermentation is the other half of the story: 36 hours in sealed tanks, roughly twice as long as their neighbours, before washing and drying on a covered patio. It builds a syrupy sweetness into a washed coffee that would otherwise read as simply clean.

What to expect

Peach, unmistakably — the kind that is just soft enough to eat. Then demerara sugar, then a dry almond finish that keeps the whole thing from being cloying. It is the coffee we put on when we want to show someone what washed Colombian coffee can be.